Echeverias

You can grow echeverias in Texas, rumors to the contrary notwithstanding. Members of the Crassula family, echeverias are grown for the their rosettes of colorful fleshy, often ruffled leaves. Colors range from green, blue, gray and white through many shades of pink and lavender to dark red, purple and almost black. Echeverias or their progenitors are found primarily in the highlands of Mexico where they grow in soil pockets on rocky outcrops and cliff faces. Many of those seen in cultivation are garden hybrids which are often hardier and more vigorous than the naturally-occurring species. As succulents go, most echeverias are quite fast- growing, which can be an advantage in that damaged leaves do not remain on the plant for an eternity. Multiple flowers appear on long branched or unbranched stems usually in winter or early spring, but often again in late summer or early fall. Flowers are bell-shaped up to an inch in length, and pink, coral, peach or salmon in color.

As relatively rapid growers, echeverias require more water than most succulents, especially when in active growth. The cool night and warm days of spring and fall are optimal for growth, but growth will continue in winter if days are warm enough. Echeverias can tolerate temperatures close to freezing, at least for brief periods. Hot Texas summers are stressful for echeverias and growth slows at this time, so the plants should be kept relatively dry. Their normally-stiff, turgid leaves become limp when water is needed. If you water over head, do not allow water to remain in the center of the rosettes as this may lead to rot.

For best color and most compact growth form, echeverias should receive as much bright light as they will tolerate without scorching. However, in summer, exposure to sunlight should be limited to morning hours. Also, in summer echeverias do best outside but should be protected from excessive rainfall. Greenhouses are too hot in summer as the plants can be damaged by temperatures over 105 (degrees?) F.

Normal succulent soil mix (1/2 potting soil, ½ drainage materials) is ideal for echeverias, and they can be grown in either plastic or clay pots. Clay pots are better for larger plants which can become to-heavy in plastic pots. Fertilize periodically during the growing season with 1/3 strength Peters' 20-20-20 or other nutrient mix. As echeverias grow, their stems elongate and the rosettes of leaves will often decrease in size. Once every year or two the rosette should be cut off long with several inches of stem. Set the rosette upright in an empty pot. When roots appear several days to several weeks later, the rosette should be potted up. Meanwhile, the original cut stem usually produces pups which can be removed and potted up once they reach sufficient size. Many echeverias can also be propagated from single leaves. Leaves removed from the parent plant and placed on a soil surface will often form small plants at the leaf base. Echeverias should only be beheaded in spring or fall when in active growth.

Aside from the odd nibbling grasshopper, echeverias are relatively free of insect pests. However, mealybugs can be a serious problem requiring constant vigilance. A fifty-fifty mix of rubbing alcohol and water applied directly with a fine paint brush or with a spray bottle is often quite effective and doesn't mar the powdery leaf surface characteristic of many echeverias. Most insecticide sprays should be avoided as they can be damaging. Insecticidal soap does no damage but isn't always effective against mealybugs. Bloom stalks are particularly prone to mealybug infestations and can be removed as an aid in dealing with the problem.