Spring has sprung, what to prune|drought strategies|fungi friends

February 2nd, 2012 Posted in Insects, bees, butterflies, drought, garden design, garden designers, native plants, pruning, roses, wildlife | No Comments »

Narcissus ‘Erlicheer’ takes a cue from the U.S. Postal Service, “Neither snow nor rain nor heat nor gloom of night stays these couriers from the swift completion of their appointed rounds.”

No matter what weather throws our way, they stick around for years, reminding me every spring that it’s all going to be okay. My viburnums, including ‘Spring Bouquet’ do, too.

So, about this pruning stuff that’s on all our minds. The viburnums need pruning, but I’ll wait until they finish flowering. The roses are going nuts already, like Mrs. Oakley Fisher (among many others).

What to do about them? In two weeks, I’ll gather a vase of them all, and then start clipping. We really do want to shape our roses in February for form and height and to encourage new growth before the heat descends!

My Turks caps are already pushing new leaves on stems I hadn’t cut back. I went ahead and cut them back last weekend. Even if we get a harsh freeze, it won’t hurt these tough natives.

I cut back most of the zexmenias (Wedelia texana).

One is still flowering (that’s microclimates for you!), so I left it for the hungry wildlife who head for it on warm days.

Even though I’m clipping back some chrysanthemums to their rosettes, I’m not pruning any with a bud or a flower. ‘Butterpat’ is just not giving up!

Rules, rules, rules!  I’ve learned that the only ruler is nature and we just have to pay attention. And get to know your own microclimates and your plants. But for some “cutting edge” information, check out this Texas A&M site.

To illustrate how we can work with nature instead of against it, this week sustainable garden designer Adams Kirkpatrick of Sunflower Design meets with Tom.

Get some of his strategies to deal with drought through easy, sustainable practices: water retention, the 7-layer forest in our own gardens, and how to conserve the critical duff layer.

One strategy that Adams promotes is respect for the beneficial fungi in our soil. This week, John Dromgoole explains how to pump up mycorrhizal fungi that are working for us underground.

Benefits: Enhanced plant efficiency to absorb water and nutrients, increased drought resistance, and increased pathogen resistance. Find out more about mycorrhizal fungi from Texas A&M.

On tour in San Antonio, see how Don Clowe embraced these strategies as he removed lawn grass, merging his passion for plants and impressions from world travels with the natural conditions of his garden. On their tree house deck in front, he and wife Gail experience Japan in one view,  and in another, the sculptural beauty of the Southwest. Especially significant is their dedication to beloved, departed family through stones of remembrance.

See you next week!  Linda

When to prune|No lawn designs|oak wilt

January 26th, 2012 Posted in Insects, bees, drought, garden design, garden designers, garden projects, lawns, native plants, pruning, trees, wildlife | 4 Comments »

We’re all just itching to prune!

I love the winter cleanup to start the slate clean, but I won’t be pruning that thryallis just yet. Others, like Salvia greggii, should be pruned now. Whatever I prune, as I work around each plant, I scrabble up the old mulch to “de-clunk” it a bit. I snag weeds and tree seedlings in hiding. Take along some pliers to pull out stubborn (small) tree seedlings!  It’s also the perfect time to add compost and fresh mulch while things are cut back.

But what can we prune and when?  This winter’s warmth makes it especially hard. When bees and butterflies are going for flowers on our Salvia greggiis, what to do?

My technique is to whack low to the ground the ones that aren’t flowering. For others, I work my way around them. It looks odd for a few weeks, but we’ll get a winter nip and then I cut them all back. If you’re too kind and don’t do it, the plants will look straggly and won’t produce as many flowers later, since they bloom on new growth.

Even though now is the perfect time to shape your rosemary plants, it’s hard to do it when bees are going for the flowers.  So again, I do selective shaping.

I’ve left some of the asters in case little birds want their seeds. Others I’ve snipped to their rosettes to show off the bee-loving bulbs coming up underneath.

This one’s against Artemisia ‘Powis Castle.’ I couldn’t stand the artemisia’s legginess, and snipped it good.  Normally I’d wait until mid-February or later (depending on weather) but I went for it since it was sending out new leaf buds.  If we hit 17 degrees in a few weeks, I’ll be clipping again.

This week, Daphne answers a few questions about pruning. Here’s one reason to hold off on a few things: “Those above-ground plant parts, which may look completely lifeless, have sugars and other plant nutrients in them that may take a while to make their way down into the roots.  They also serve as a small amount of protection to the soil around the roots of the plant, and those are two reasons why it’s really best to leave those unsightly “sticks” alone until we are into late winter.  Another reason is that pruning stimulates growth.  And when a plant is trying to “go to sleep” for the winter, you need to go ahead and let it do that.”

So, I’m leaving that thryallis alone for now.  Also, I’m not touching the shrimp plants.

And, I’m following Daphne’s advice: don’t prune evergreens until we’re closer to the last frost date. I’ll wait until at least March 1 for them and later for the shrimp and thryallis, again depending on the forecast. More on pruning next week!

It IS  time to prune red oaks and live oaks that are susceptible to oak wilt.

This week, Certified Arborist Guy LeBlanc has tips on how to prevent oak wilt, and what we can prune after the February cut-off date. Get his latest guidelines on oak wilt pruning.

Since nature “pruned” our lawns for us, this week Tom meets with David Meeker from Porthole Design for design ideas to dump the grass.

Here’s one of his front yard designs. I’m in love.

See how he turned the routine into captivation for the family and wildlife.

Here’s a spot under consideration.

David’s designed two renditions (that include the backyard). It allows for edibles and ornamentals. Once you have a design, you can fill with your choice of plants. Here’s the circular concept.

This one is more straight on.

Which would you do?  That’s part of the fun! Are you a circular person or a straight on person? Or do you want a little of each? It’s your garden, so get some marking paint and just imagine!

On tour, visit Helen Roberts, who enriches her life with art from every viewpoint. Her garden, named The Muses, is a perpetual gallery that mounts a new exhibit every season. With designer Bridget Lane, Helen chose a no-lawn garden that respects her land and encourages the wildlife that performs every day.

See you next week! Linda

Soil drought recovery|tree decay|how low can it go?

January 19th, 2012 Posted in Nurseries, bulbs, disease, drought, fall plants, garden design, garden designers, mulch, soil mixes, trees, winter color | 2 Comments »

Troublesome Central Texas weather does have its upside! Most winters, seasons converge with greenery and flowers, even as dormant perennials take a break.

Early bird Paperwhite narcissus starts the bulb parade.

Bees raced from one flower to another.

Then they checked out The Fairy rose, but veered off when they spied me as an evil stalker. Normally pink in color, this early scout quickly turned white in the brief heat wave.

Even though we’re in remission from last year’s torture, we’re in recovery mode. Our soil is still damaged, and until we restore its vitality, our plants will struggle when we head into the next tough round coming soon.

This week, Tom and George Altgelt from Geo Growers explain what we need to do right now to restore our drought-damaged soil and how to do it.

For years, George has mentored me (and us all!) on soil biology. It’s the key to success, whatever soil you have. As he explains this week, it’s essential to nourish our soil horizons with compost, aeration and “fuel” like granular molasses or other microbial activators.

To keep soil horizons intact, George doesn’t recommend tilling. He notes, “The top 4-inch layer includes things that provide food and sustenance for feeder roots. The further you go down, the more it changes into things that are holding moisture and providing a backup of minerals.”

Really, I’ve seen the difference that a little time with a spading fork can do in making holes and topping with compost. Push your spade gently around beds and plants to loosen things up, then top with some compost.  In compacted areas, you’ll notice the difference really fast. In beds, you’ll also see plants perk up when air and nutrients get to their roots.

After two winters of exceptionally hard freeze, we’ve all paid more attention to “how low can it go?”

This week, Daphne explains what “root hardy” means. Does the plant tag info on cold hardiness refer to the soil or air temperature?  She notes: “if a plant is listed as “hardy” to a certain temperature, it is likely to be killed if temperatures drop below that number.  To protect your perennial and root hardy plants in the winter, be sure to mulch very well before the first freeze, piling the mulch up much higher around the root zone than you normally might.”

Daphne explains the relationship to air temperature. “In December when I had two nights in a row in the mid 20’s at my house, I measured the temperature of the soil, and it was only 40 degrees.  Because the air is colder than the soil, many temperate zone plants have developed the strategy of dropping their tender leaves, or even sacrificing their entire body, to hunker down into the soil, where it’s relatively warmer.  Plants that have this strategy are called perennials if they’re relatively herbaceous, like our native echinaceas and gazanias, and root hardy if they’re woody, like lantana and esperanza.” Microclimates and how long the plant’s been in the ground can also affect “how low can it go.”

Yikes, how many of us have run into this?

Or this?

This week, Arbor Vitae Tree Care Certified Arborist Guy LeBlanc analyzes tree decay fungus and what it means.  Hypoxylon is one that we’re seeing more often in drought conditions.

Now, here’s a happy story for you about Christmas poinsettias, thanks to Jay Musfeldt in Leander.

Every year viewers ask, “Can I plant my poinsettia in the ground?” Get Daphne’s answer and how Jay found the magic spot in his garden for a return performance a year later.

On tour, we recap a visit to Sue Ford’s former garden in Fredericksburg. She and designer Patrick Kirwin took a lesson from the past with waterwise plants and no lawn in a cottage garden setting that reflects the home’s historic roots. Antique roses join succulents, naturalizing bulbs and wildlife food in every season.

See you next week! Linda

Anticipation|Peach trees|Italian design|Insect control|Ponds

January 12th, 2012 Posted in Insects, books, bulbs, fruit trees, garden bloggers, garden design, garden designers, ponds, trees, vegetables, winter color | 6 Comments »

Somebody thinks it’s spring!

I treasure fragrant old-fashioned petunias for cascading perfume in my spring and summer patio containers. Warm winter days prompted an energetic splurge at the base of a potted sweet olive (Osmanthus fragrans). Since they’re hard to find, I cover them when temps dip below freezing, though an old tablecloth was fine when we briefly hit 27°.

In January, it’s more usual to see violas. I go back and forth on winter annuals, but can’t resist a few of these edible beauties.

Just a few weeks into winter, already spring’s given us a heads up. When ‘Country Girl’ mums wear out and I snip them to tidy rosettes, naturalizing bulbs will flower power hungry insects.

I don’t mind the wait for poppies and spuria irises, too, since I’m keen on winter foliage that anchors our attention until explosion day.

Thanks to rain, last year’s poppy and larkspur seeds returned from self-appointed spots among bearded iris and winecups.  For me, anticipation is half the fun!

Many gardeners can’t wait to pick their own organic fruit this summer!  To fill your buckets with peaches, this week Tom meets with Jim Kamas, Texas Agrilife Extension Horticulturist from Fredericksburg.

Get a few of Jim’s techniques from the brand new Texas Peach Handbook, co-authored with Larry Stein, Texas AgriLife Extension Horticulturist, published by Texas A&M Press.

In our brief primer, Tom and Jim note variety selection per required chilling hours and pruning tips. Here’s a before pruning picture.

And after.

Jim notes what to do now about plum curculio (the book includes very thorough identification and control of disease and pests).

Every paragraph is packed with spot-on information, including horticultural insight in general! You can also meet Jim in person for his free workshop on fruits, nuts, and berries at 10 a.m. January 14 at The Natural Gardener.

Find out more: For tips on growing fruits, nuts and berries, check out Aggie Horticulture’s Home Fruit & Nut Gardening guide.

Daphne explains how to grow cut-and-come again lettuce, like Travis County Master Gardener Sheryl Williams’ late fall harvest from her ever abundant garden.

Follow Sheryl’s vegetable gardens, projects, and lawn reduction on Yard Fanatic!

Depending on weather (always), we can keep on seeding through early March. I planted more two weeks ago and they’re coming up like mad. Lettuce is pretty cold hardy, but for safety, cover if we drop below 40°, especially if you have little ones coming up. Like every plant, variety and microclimates make a difference.

My friend Mary Wachsmann, who writes at Food Joy, and documents her nummy recipes with her camera, is loving heirloom butterhead ‘Speckles’ in balcony pots.  Lettuce is perfect for small spaces and containers!

Find out more. Check out the free  Travis County Master Gardener workshops on planting vegetables and rose care. “Planting Spring Vegetables” is Jan. 14 from 10 a.m. – noon.

Insects, like our dormant perennials, are timing their emergence to chomp on our fruit and shade trees. Daphne explains how to fend them off with horticultural (dormant) oil.

Daphne notes: “This is the time of year that we can spray horticultural oil on fruit trees, as a necessary preventative, or other trees that have had problems, to naturally control overwintering insects, especially in their egg, larvae and nymph stages. . . They can also control many fungal pathogens by blocking their access to tender plant tissues, where they can easily invade.”

But if you don’t get around to it, here’s this week’s success story! In fall 2010, friend Bob Harper sent us his red oak leaves that had been skeletonized by earlier insects.

Daphne noted that the pests were long gone, so the best thing to do was to keep the tree healthy. Recently, Bob’s neighbor Richard Alwine nabbed this shot of a pest-free, happy tree!

On tour, visit avid gardener Cecilia Neuhaus, who was ready to cut back on maintenance and water. In her new garden, she worked with Landscape Architect Tait Moring to capture the essence of Italy with low-maintenance patios and formal walkways that blend flowers and food, wildlife and soothing introspection, on her Lake Austin miniature “Grand Canal.”

To winterize your ponds, fountains and fish, get tips from Steve Kainer at Hill Country Water Gardens & Nursery.

Until next week, Linda